IMBB #20: Asiago and Chèvre Soufflé

This was a busy food weekend. Eating out with Hubby and Peggy and Sunil. Three cooking events in almost as many days, the last of which is IMBB #20.

Kitchen Chick is hosting this month's IMBB and she has decided on...Soufflé.

As luck would have it, I made and served my first soufflé for Hubby’s birthday dinner last week; before then, I’d never had cause or interest to make one. And thanks to Kellie’s prodigious buttering lesson for the molten chocolate cakes, these soufflés puffed up proudly and came to the table without falling. I was delighted that I hadn’t ended up with a béchamel glop. Hubby was sweetly complimentary.

I was disappointed by the first soufflé I ever ate: a chocolate soufflé at The Cellar, an otherwise lovely little restaurant in Fullerton, California. For years I had heard about the complexities associated with making a soufflé; I imagined that it was an elite litmus test dividing chefs from cooks. Presented with the opportunity to try one, I couldn’t resist, particularly as I was informed by the perfectly correct maitre d’ that it would take a full twenty-eight minutes to prepare. In imagining a transcendent culinary experience, I had no hope but to be disappointed; what came was no doubt an excellent chocolate soufflé. But to my taste buds, it was simply a hyper-chocolately puff of air doused with chocolate sauce. That was in 1989; and until last week, I had not had another soufflé. I’m not sure what possessed me to try; but in my head, I wanted something that would incorporate the fresh goat cheese I’d picked up at the Farmer’s Market on a recent foray to Atlanta, and I wanted it to be ethereally pale and light (the “pale” part of the “Pale Fire” dinner ). A soufflé presented itself as a possible choice.

“It’s all about timing,” a friend once said when I noted that I did not care for soufflés.

This was a portent of ill things for me as I lack timing. Coupled with an occasional failure of grace and you can understand why I have managed to walk into walls at full speed. (“I see them coming. I just don’t veer out of the way until it’s too late.”). And do you have any idea how intimidating it is to have a husband who can dance on a syncopated beat? But when have I ever shown common sense in approaching the stove top?

I scoured recipes and read what I could about soufflés. I discovered “twice baked” soufflés. Having always believed that soufflés were subject to the J.I.T. (“just in time”) principle (“If you should care for the chocolate soufflé, please be advised that you must order it now; the chef will require twenty-eight minutes in which to make it.”), I was intrigued. Make them in advance, refrigerate them, then reheat them shortly before serving. However, I was mistrustful of my abilities to produce a twice baked soufflé that wouldn’t come out of the kitchen tough (visions of the inherently inedible twice baked potatoes I have been served in the past dancing in my head), and too indoctrinated with the concept that soufflés must be made to order. I decided that some portions -- the roux, cheese base and egg whites could be made ahead of time, but assembled only when I was ready to pop them in the oven. Twenty-eight minutes before serving, I incorporated the whipped egg whites into the creamy Asiago and chèvre base. Spooning the soufflé mixture into heavily buttered ramekins, I placed them into the oven, set two timers to counteract my timing problems, and said a silent prayer to Vatel, all the while concocting a fake French name for the dish in the event that disaster struck (marketing is everything). Luckily, soufflés emerged from the oven.

The soufflés I made tonight didn't have the same high top as last week's, but the flavor of the cheeses...mmmm. The best part? These soufflés were made two days ago -- twice baked.

Tagged with: IMBB # 20 + Souffle

Asiago and Chévre Soufflé

After experimenting with several soufflé recipes, I concocted this one using two cheeses and 2% milk because I was afraid our arteries would otherwise harden at the table. As it turned out, the lower fat milk made for a "lighter" flavor than the whole milk and cream found in other recipes.

Serves 4:

1 cup firm goat cheese, crumbled
3/4 cup Asiago cheese, grated
2 large eggs, separated
3/4 cup 2% milk
2 1/2 T unsalted butter
5 T + 1 t all-purpose flour
2 t Dijon mustard
1 t salt (or to taste)
1 t pepper (or to taste)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Boil a pot of water (for the bain mairie) and set aside. Butter four medium sized ramekins.

In a saucepan, melt the butter and add the flour over medium low heat. Whisk the roux to make sure the butter and flour are incorporated, about 4 minutes. Add the milk, bring the mixture to a boil, whisking quickly, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to simmer for an additional 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the egg yolks, goat cheese, Asiago cheese mustard, salt and pepper until the mixture is smooth.

Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until they form stiff peaks. Stir 1/3 of the egg whites into the egg mixture to lighten it, then fold in remaining egg whites.

Spoon the mixture into ramekins and set them in a baking pan. Pour the hot water in the pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake on the middle rack for 22 minutes or until they have puffed up. Remove from the oven serve immediately before the soufflé falls.

Technorati Profile

Comments

[Stephanie]

Oooh!

I don't care too much for souffles...seems like such a lot of effort for something so...fluffy; but Asiagor and Chevre tempts me...yum!

Looks wonderful!

[Ruth]

What a great post. I too, shy away from making "real" souffles. My assumption is that it way too complex and I'm sure it will absolutely fall.

I have made a mousse that's called Frozen Daiquiri souffle. It never goes near the oven (or the freezer for that matter) but has a collar around the souffle dish and when served stands a good 2 inches higher than the sides. It is delicious, but not really a souffle.

Yours is really beautiful.

[Georgia]

I'm always so impressed by cooks who make souffles -- I remember my mom making some when I was growing up, and I've always wanted to try, but I'm afraid that it will fall and then I'll be stuck with something awful for dinner. But I think it's time to hold my nose and dive in. Do you know of any good entree souffles that have proven themselves? I want to start out with something that I know has worked for other non-professional chefs.

[Cath Hong-Praslick]

Ruth, I'd love to have that recipe!

Georgia, honestly, I think this recipe is a pretty good start. It produces a nice and fluffy soufflé; the trick is not to overbeat the egg whites or fold them in too well. From what I understand, soufflés are meant to fall so it's okay, but even if they do, this one tastes pretty good! Good luck -- feel free to email me at ablithepalateATgmailDOTcom if you have any questions!

[Georgia]

Thanks for the advice -- maybe I'll try it this weekend. =)

[Kitchen Chick]

Very pretty! Such a delicate color. I just love the idea of twice-baked souffles allowing one to make them in advance. I have generally made only dessert souffles because I didn't have to coordinate them with other dishes, but the twice-baked souffle makes it easy to coordinate with a multi-course meal.