SHF #13: Chocolate Ravioli (Once More Into the Breach)

I'm a little late to the party (fashionably, I hope?) -- I had some technical difficulties with the pictures so I'll have to post those later...

Me: I met the Chocolate King once.

Greg: Abe Frohman?

Me: No, he would be the Sausage King of Chicago.

(I am so grateful every day for my spouse and my friends. You just can't buy this kind of context.)

Years ago, I served as a consultant for the man who is the chairman of Barry Callebaut, the world's largest manufacturer of cocoa, chocolate, and confectionary foods. Why oh why didn't I keep in touch? Why oh why didn't I hand him my resume and beg him for a job? On the other hand, I accidentally insulted his gummy bears. We were meeting at a conference center, and he was scrutinizing the plate of gummy bears that had been set out by the hotel's hospitality group. We spent a few minutes discussing the finer points of gummy bear textures. Then:

"I love these best," I said tactlessly, forgetting that one of his other assets, a candy company, was also a leading purveyor of gummy bears. "I hate the squishy kind."

He paused, studied the firm gummy bear poised between thumb and forefinger, then squashed its head. In a dulcet, patrician voice, he said, "My gummy bears are soft."

So scratch being buddies. But still. Barry Callebaut! Damn.

Kelli, at Lovescool is the host of this anniversary edition of Sugar High Friday, the Domestic Goddess' monthly paean to all things dessert. For this month's event, Kelli challenged us with dark chocolate.

Serendipitously, I read Kelli's post about single origin chocolate last week and found varietal chocolates at Trader Joe's on the same day. I love blogs -- I learn about so many wonderful new things.

Like single vineyard wines, chocolate connoisseurs swear by "single source" chocolate -- that is, chocolate made solely from the cocoa beans of one region, thereby exemplifying all the best traits of the region, or terroir, borrowing the term from winemakers. The global bean supplies come from Ecuador, Grenada, Venezuela, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Jamaica, Madagascar, Indonesia and Trinidad and each region has its own distinct flavor and characteristics.

Cocoa beans are taken from the pods of the cacao tree, then dried carefully to preserve their fresh taste. They are fermented, to reduce the bitterness and develop the chocolate flavor we know and love, then like coffee beans, the cocoa beans are roasted. Their shells are removed and they are crushed and heated until they yield the thick chocolate liquor which is then combined with cocoa butter, sugar, milk, and vanilla. After days of refining, the chocolate is ready.

The bars that I found at Trader Joe's are more on the low end of varietal chocolate (definitely not grand crus like Valrhona and Guittard), made by a Spanish company called Chocovic (Guaranda, from Ecuador and Ocumare from Venezuela), but they're a good place to start for now.

Armed with my bars of chocolate, I made one more pass at Chocolate Ravioli. Unlike my previous, less-than-stellar (okay, horrifying) attempt, I found -- and used -- a recipe created by a professional: Eric Ripert's Chocolate Ravioli in Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce, from his book, A Return to Cooking.

And unlike my mascarpone horror, I got the smooth, creamy filling I wanted with the dark chocolate pastry cream. I also found a ravioli mold and making the ravioli jumped up a notch on the easy meter. Paired with a luscious single vineyard cabernet, this was almost too much heaven; but better to go out on a chocolate high!

Happy Anniversary, Sugar High Fridays!

P.S. Kelli has already done the round up! Go check out some fabulous looking desserts!

Chocolate Ravioli in Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce

Chef Ripert's recipe is on the Epicurious site.

Comments

[Ms Sam Breach]

I always get very afraid when people say that.
(Once more into the Breach).

I am stuck and work all hours and all weekend and havent been able to enter :(

[Jennifer]

This is the best idea I've seen all day! You've given me something to dream about and ponder until I build up the culinary courage to try it myself.

[Cath Hong-Praslick]

Sam, you crack me up. Okay -- do you need me to come with a rescue team and break you out of there?! Get you some time off?!

Jennifer, I operate with sheer and complete disregard for personal safety when it comes to my cooking -- go ahead and do what you're dreaming! God knows nothing can be worse than my first chocolate pasta attempt. Thanks for dropping by with such a nice compliment!

[tanvi]

Before my life got crazy, I intended to make chocolate ravioli for SHF! Glad to see that they look so great- good reason for me to make them at some point.

[chronicler]

Who needs pictures when you start off with your very excellent story about Barry Callebaut? :-)

I am glad this version of your ravioli turned out. What an assortment of great recipes!

[Cath Hong-Praslick]

Hi Tanvi! Glad to know someone else was going to attempt this -- I'd love to see your recipe!

Chronicler, thanks for the nice comment! Oh yes, Barry Callebaut -- sigh. Hindsight and all? I found another chocolate ravioli recipe that bears attempting. But maybe later... :-)